Inspired by the iconic white lab coat worn by the Maison Margiela collective, the white version is the first of its kind on the Mackintosh’s extensive colour palette. Longer than the standard Mac, and designed to echo the appearance of the blouse blanche, the coat also features other iconic Margiela details including white horn buttons, brushed steel eyelets and the trademark four stitches on the back.
The second design is a direct take on a coat found in the Mackintosh archives, reinterpreted using the décortiqué technique introduced in the Spring - Summer 2017 ‘Artisanal’ collection designed by John Galliano. This process functions by peeling off the garments’ layers to reveal their essential frames. Here, the collar and cuffs are worked in the décortiqué technique while the fabric and details remain identical to those of the original design: an evolution of traditional styles used to create a contemporary, innovative piece.
Each coat is handmade following the unique Mackintosh technique, developed by Charles Mackintosh to create the now iconic rubberised fabric. The use of rubber on the garment gives it a waterproof quality. All seams are taped and glued to create a seamless effect. The gluing process alone is a skill learned by apprentices over many years of training, as the glue is applied by hand directly onto the fabric. The taping process of a rubberized coat is vital in order to achieve the waterproof quality, a process requiring skill and precision.
The two numbered limited edition coats connect perfectly with the spirit of the Maison Margiela Menswear Spring - Summer 2018 collection, in which authentic garments are reconstructed through the lens of the Maison’s codes to create a sense of unconscious glamour.